We have just recently had a fantastic three weeks exploring the Wet Tropics region of Australia celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary traveling round in a camper van. We covered about 1700 kilometers (1056 miles) starting at Cairns airport, we traveled down to MISSION BEACH for a few days taking in the WHITE WATER RAFTING ON THE TULLY RIVER before heading up to the ATHERTON TABLELANDS & RAVENSHOE. We then went across to UNDARA on the edge of the outback before heading back to the Tablelands and lake district area of MALANDA & LAKE TINAROO. From there it was up to PORT DOUGLAS then in to the DAINTREE FOREST & CAPE TRIBULATION before heading back down the coast to LAKE PLACID on the outskirts of Cairns. A great trip where we did loads and also missed loads. It's such a vast area that you only appreciate while traveling around. Just so much to see and do that it's impossible to cram everthing in, in such a short time. We had sort of planned a route and booked a couple of things before we left but for the most part it was planning as we went, the best way really as there is no need to book everything, just turn up somewhere and if it takes your fancy go for it. The beauty of traveling in a camper is that you just stop in a area and you have your bed and board with you and most of the camping/van sites have all the amenities on site with a one off payment. Camp kitchen, toilet & shower blocks, laundry rooms, swimming pools etc.We paid between $15 at Ravenshoe, this is a volunteer run site and about $52 at Port Douglas which was the dearest site but it is in one of the best and most popular resorts in the area. It also helps if the exchange rate is good value and for our trip it was as we were getting on average 2AUS $ to 1GBP so everything was good value and it does make a difference. As we go tent camping in the UK we are used to camp sites but the ones in Australia take it to another level. Yes there are basic free campgrounds and also sites where you have to have permits and in the past we have stayed in these, as this trip was our third, having first visited in December/January 2009/2010 and also February/March 2012 but for the most part we have stayed in the tourist parks that are abundant in each area.
First stop off was Mission Beach where we had pre-booked this site before we left so knew what to expect before we arrived here and we weren't disappointed. About a ninety minute drive from the airport along a great scenic coast road in hot sunny weather made for the perfect start to the tour and as a special treat we saw our first sighting of the elusive CASSOWARY, a large flightless bird that is very rare and can be extremely dangerous, on the grass verge just as we were heading in to Mission Beach. A good site surrounded by the forest and set amongst palm trees just across the road from the good sandy beach
Welcome to Cairns
Cassowary on the way to Mission Beach
Mission Beach
Camp Kitchen
Mission Beach
Mission Beach
Entrance to Mission Beach
This was a good stopover and the perfect place to unwind and help get over the long flight and to adjust to the different time zone as this part of the world is about 10 hours ahead of the UK. One thing we couldn't get used to, was that it was dark at 6pm and places just seem to shut down by 8pm! While back in the UK at this time it's still light and alive. One reason everyone's up and out in this part of OZ at 5am when the sun comes up.
Another thing that we had previously booked was White Water Rafting on the River Tully! One thing we had wanted to do since we started planning this holiday 12 months in advance. We have done it before in Wales but nothing like this. A full day rafting with approximate 14km of river with a lunch stop. Pick up & drop off from the site in good sunny weather, amazing day.
The day before we did the rafting, we paid a visit to the Tully, driving through all the banana plantations for which the area is known for, and very nice they are as well :-) We had a walk round the pic-nic and campground area where the rafting finishes and this is where we came across the first of many Crocodile warning signs throughout North Queensland. You know before hand that croc's live in the waters in this part of OZ and that swimming in any water is dangerous but also that the waters are monitored for their presence. As this is a popular area and the rafting spot, we were told that any crocs were much further down river but they do sometimes make there way up river especially after floods. MORE HERE
Tully River
Watch out there's a Croc about
Tully River
Tully River
Tully River
After Mission Beach we headed inland to a town called Ravenshoe, the highest town in Queensland. We only stayed here for one night at the Railway Van Park as we were traveling a further 2 hours inland to Undara. On the way to Ravenshoe we had a stop of at the MAMU TROPICAL SKYWALK and also Henrietta Creek in the WOOROONOORAN NATIONAL PARK where I went on a walk to see the NANDROYA FALLS. Two very different walks as one is up in the trees on a platform with great views while the other is along a rainforest track which brings you out at some great water falls.
Mamu Skywalk
Mamu Skywalk
Mamu Skywalk
Nandroya Falls
Nandroya Falls
Nandroya Falls
Nandroya Falls
Nandroya Falls
We got into the van park at Ravenshoe and was surprised to learn it only cost $15 for the night, about £7.50 and the cheapest of the trip, as this was a volunteer run site on the old railway station. A great little site and perfect for a one night stop over. The manager invited all newcomers around the open campfire for damper and a chat while having a few drinks, a nice touch and a great way to meet other travelers, most of whom were Australians taking months and even years to make their way round the country, exciting stuff :-)
Ravenshoe Van Park
Ravenshoe Van Park
Undara was our next stop and this is one place that we never looked at while researching the trip. As it is a four hour plus drive from Cairns and more in the bush than the rest of the places we stopped at it never occurred to us to travel that far inland. It was only when we picked the van up that we were told of the place and was highly recommended to pay it a visit if time permitted. Well as I said before, we had no definite plan, just a route to cover in the three weeks we were on the road so we thought why not, something a bit different and a chance to get away from the humidity for a couple of days, we weren't disappointed! One thing about having a trip like this, is the driving. It's part of the tour and the roads out here are a joy to drive on. I'm not the biggest fan of driving in the UK as it can be a nightmare at the best of times so it was great to relax and enjoy the scenery and the miles and miles of long, straight and empty roads, in, for the most part, good clear sunny weather. This drive from Ravenshoe to Undara and back again was probably the best, going from rainforest to bushland passing through a few small towns and miles of empty roads. We had a short stop at a rest area in the Forty Mile Scub NT and as most rest areas, there are toilets, picnic facilities, a short walk and information boards about the area.
Road to Undara
Road to Undarra
We got parked up at Undara for two nights and the first thing we had noticed was a bit of wildlife in the form of Wallabies and Wallaroos. We had spotted a few kankgaroos, live and dead, but this is the first time on this trip we got up close and personal, so to speak. There was also the usual birds, lizards, spiders and the most colourful butterflies, just like being in a nature park. It was also warm, very warm, and the swimming pool came in very handy the time we were there. We also went on two tours they do here, one to see the Lava Tubes and also the sunset and bat cave tour, both of which were great and well recommended. There are a few bush walks to do and we went the BLUFF LOOKOUT & CURCUIT and made it last a couple of hours. As with a lot of van parks on this tour we sat round our campfire cooking and having a drink sat under the milky way, epic. The day we left, we went on the Kalkani Crater Rim Walk that finished off our time out in the Savannah
Meeting the locals
Nice way to cool off
Bush walk
Bushwalk
Lava Tubes
Lava Tubes
Lava Tubes
Bluff Lookout
Bat cave
Kalkani Crater walk
Kalkani Crater walk
Kalkani Crater walk
Kalkani Crater walk
Kalkani Crater walk
From here it was the long drive back to the tablelands where we had a one night stop over in Malanda next to the Malanda Falls. We did visit the Millstream Falls that are the widest single drop falls in Australia. It was also here that the weather got a little on the cooler side with a few showers mixed in.
Millstream Falls
Malanda Falls
Malanda Falls
Coldest night of the tour @ Malanda Falls
We then headed into the Lakes District area and a place called Lake Tinaroo and a wedding was taking place on the other side of the lake. Nice place to get married. As well as Lake Tinaroo there are two other lakes close by, LAKE BARRINE & LAKE EACHAM We were hoping to go kayaking on Lake Tinaroo but with the weather being as it was, windy and a few showers, we just had another drive round visiting the other lakes and a few short walks. It was while we stopped and had a look round Youngaburra that we saw a platypus!! One thing that we had hoped to see while in the area as there are a lot in the creeks, rivers and lakes. Looking at the size of it, it was probably a young one but a platypus all the same. A totally weird looking creature that looks like it's made up of left overs from other animals, quite a unique experience and great to see one in the wild. This part of the wet tropics reminded us of the Lake District in the UK with a lot of green rolling hills and fields that are used for diary. There is also a WIND FARM here that supplies electricity to the surrounding homes.
Lake Tinaroo pool
Lake Tinaroo Wedding
Lake Tinaroo Dam
Lake Tinaroo
Lake Tinaroo
Lake Tinaroo mangoves
Lake Barrine
Lake Barrine
Lake Eacham
Saw Shelled Turtle @ Lake Eacham
Platypus @ Youngaburra
Sun going down @ Lake Tinaroo
Teatime Aussie style
We left the tablelands in cool and quite windy weather and decided to drive straight up to Port Douglas for a few nights and take in some snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. The drive was about 100kms and took us a few hours with a couple of stop offs along the way. The weather was also changing back to being warm and sunny which made the driving all the better. We stopped of at MOSSMAN GORGE on the way and had a look round this great place. Unfortunately we didn't have a swim as there was quite a few warning signs dotted about warning visitors about the state of the river and the dangers in it. More to do with under currents and boulders than any wild life that mat be lurking! It didn't seem to stop some though and I was wishing I had my swimming shorts on.
Mossman Gorge
Mossman Gorge
Mossman Gorge
Mossman Gorge
Mossman Gorge
We did have a couple of van parks in mind for a day but decided it would be better to head straight for the coast and enjoy the delights of the seaside for a change. Port Douglas is a really nice place, a bit upmarket with a nice Marina and it where most of the barrier reef trips go from. We got to another good van park with very good facilities again and promptly booked a full day reef trip for the following day, our 30th wedding anniversary :-) Something that both of us had looked forward to since we started planning the trip but had no idea we would be doing it on our anniversary. Just another great thing about not pre-booking everything in advance and having a strict itinerary to adhere to. We knew we would be snorkeling but just a case of when. The boat journey was 90 minutes out to the outer reef, 30 miles from Port Douglas and it was a "bit lumpy" Even though I took a sea sick tablet my head was a little bit on the light side so I moved to the back of the boat with a few others!! The staff at the van park were more than helpful with everything and at no extra cost. With that out of the way we went for a walk along the beach and had our first swim of the trip in the coral sea. Unfortunately, it was still stinger season and there was only a small cordoned off bay where you go for a dip. BOX JELLY FISH are extremely poisonous and are found all year round but notably in the wet season from November till April and precautions have to be taken as one sting can put you in hospital for quite some time! Something else you have to watch out for is the crocodiles that live in the area's water ways. There are signs everywhere where there's water, even around the marina and beaches. that goes for all of this part of Australia and another reason why it's not quite safe to just go swimming where you please. Always have to be extra careful.
Happy Anniversary
Entrance to Port Douglas Beach
Port Douglas Beach
Port Douglas Beach
Port Douglas Beach
Port Douglas Beach swimming area
Feeling a tad rough!
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
Great Barrier Reef
The following day was back to being a bit overcast but still very warm so we had a walk round the town and marina and it really is a nice looking place. A good relaxing couple of days in a good relaxing part of OZ celebrating our Anniversary, great :-)
Port Douglas Beach
Port Douglas
Port Douglas
Port Douglas
Port Douglas Marina
Watchout there's a Croc about in Port Douglas
Port Douglas Steam Train
Port Douglas base
Sun going down on Port Douglas Marina
Tea time :-)
Another place we were looking forward to visiting was the Daintree Forest & Cape Tribulation. It had been on my list of place to visit for a long time and to step on to Cape Trib beach was a great feeling as it's the one place where two world heritage sites come together. The weather didn't quite follow the good sunny days we have enjoyed, apart from the first day where it was just so warm and humid it took your breath away. It was also where we had pre booked our three night stay before hand and was really looking forward to a little bit of luxury in the heart of the Daintree.
Our port of call was the Daintree Eco Lodge & Spa, tucked away in rain forest about ten minutes from the ferry, which takes you over to the Daintree River and Cape Tribulation. We had booked a nature package that included a crocodile and sunset river cruise with DAINTREE RIVER WILD WATCH and also a guided walk through one of the oldest parts of the rainforest at COOPER CREEK WILDERNESS. We decided that w it would be best if we went on the cruise soon after we had arrived as it would give us the chance to cool of while slowly drifting down the river and Barratt Creek. As it turned out it was the best decision as it was the best day weatherwise. Our guide, Sauce, certainly knew his stuff as we spotted all manner of birds and of course, Crocodiles. Four of them, one small about 4/5 feet in length and three big ones in the region of 4/5metres in length!! The sunset at the end was special as well and it capped of a fantastic first day in the Daintree.
Our rain forest base
Daintree River
Jabiru on the Daintree River
Kingfisher on the Daintree River
Bee Eaters on the Daintree River
Kingfisher on the Daintree River
Daintree River Crocodile
Daintree River Crocodile
Daintree River Crocodile
Daintree River Crocodile
Kingfisher on the Daintree River
Sun going down on the Daintree River
The next two days the weather changed back to overcast and a bit damp, in fact it got very wet on our final night here that flooded the roads and cut of the village of Daintree. There was some serious flooding further North as some places were completely cut off. We were lucky that we were to be heading back South to Cairns but the rain was bad for a few days.
We decided on the DAINTREE FERRY over to Cape Tribulation and the last sealed road before you need a 4x4 to go any further. We made our way to Cape Trib beach and to have a walk along it and despite the light rain it was a good feeling. We were also lucky enough to see another Cassowary and his chick that came out of the forest and walked along the walking track we and quite a few other people were on. It made it's way onto the beach before disappearing back in to the forest. A real treat for everyone there :-) After a drive round we decided that we'd book to go on the JUNGLE SURFING for a bit of fun zipping through the canopy. Another last minute decision before we made our way back and ended up going the pub in the village for a meal and a pint :-)
Cape Tribulation Beach
Cassowary & Chick @ Cape Tribulation Beach
Over looking Cape Trib Beach
Cape Trib lookout point
A wet Cape Trib Beach
Jungle Surfing in the Daintree
Enjoying a cold one @ the Daintree Village pub
After our time in the Daintree we made our way back down the coast to Lake Placid on the outskirts of Cairns for the final few days. It should of been a great drive along this spectacular coastline with excellent beaches and stop-offs on the way but in reality it was a wet and wild drive that I was glad to get over.The rain just kept on coming to the extent that the Cairns region had it's worst rainfall for 96 years for the month of May!! The bridge that we went under on the boat a couple of days earlier had disappeared as the river had risen over three metres and cut off Daintree village. Lots of flooded fields and roads made driving quite interesting but we managed to make it to our final destination in one piece.
Barratt Creek bridge before the rains came
A flooded Barratt Creek bridge. (notice the yellow crocodile sign on the right)
Flooded fields on the Daintree River
Nice driving conditions
We had a damp walk round Cairns and a visit to the waterfalls on the Barron River near to the campsite. Cairns is a good city with plenty going on as it's another gateway to the Reef. The marina and esplanade are good places to visit and walk along. We decided to go on one last snorkeling trip for a half day to Green Island. Not the greatest but good to see the contrast of the inner reef to the outer reef we did from Port Douglas. We also went on the KURANDA TRAIN & SKYRAIL that is a must if you're in the area.
Cairns Esplanade
Outdoor swimming @ Cairns Esplanade
Cairns Marina
Surprise Creek Waterfalls
Barron River
Lake Placid pool & kitchen
Green Island
Kuranda Train
Kuranda Train and waterfalls
Kurandra Skyrail
Over the Barron River
View out to the coast from the Skyrail
So there you have it, a bit of a guided tour around the wet tropics area of Australia. Three weeks isn't enough time to see and do everything but driving around in a camper lets you see and do things at a leisurely pace without sticking to a rigid itinerary.
A great way to spend our 30th wedding anniversary, thanks Jill x :-)
